Scaffolding & Rigging in WA
Wed, 26 Mar 2003, 05:46 pmKristen11 posts in thread
Scaffolding & Rigging in WA
Wed, 26 Mar 2003, 05:46 pmHi All,
I am looking for somewhere in Perth that supplies scaffolding and/or rigging.
I require a scaffolding platform for the set of Working, at Roleystone Theatre in May.
The cheaper the better.
Anyone who can help, please contact Kristen on 0408920954.
Ta Muchly
I am looking for somewhere in Perth that supplies scaffolding and/or rigging.
I require a scaffolding platform for the set of Working, at Roleystone Theatre in May.
The cheaper the better.
Anyone who can help, please contact Kristen on 0408920954.
Ta Muchly
Re: Scaffolding & Rigging
Tue, 8 Apr 2003, 11:15 amHello John
Lighting pipe has it's origins in England as scaffolding and is 1 7/8 inches so you need to use 48mm, or you will find some hook clamps will not fit over the bar easily, if you use 50mm pipe.
There are several versions of aluminium "bars"
The "C" section has a strip missing along one of the faces to allow the bar to be prewired with round 3 pin sockets. The gaps between the sockets has a soft plastic extrusion fitted to protect the cabling and help the bar look neat. These sockets are easily damaged when touring but they saved a lot of time when setting up.
David Ashton in Perth has a square version with a 45 degree chamfer on the bottom side to allow the hook clamp screw to lock in under the bar. This profile bar can be prewired as well. The advantage of using this "square" bar is that you lamps hang vertically as the hookclamp sits on a flat surface. This helps with focussing as the bar does not "twist around" as you focus each light.
For round bars you have a choice of steel which is cheaper but heavier, or aluminium which is dearer but lighter. The choice of wall thickness will affect the weight of the bars.
Always get a rigger to check bar suspension as long span bars may need a middle support, depending on the wall thickness.
Testing and tagging of lamps is essential otherwise the bar can become lethal.
There is an aluminium hookclamp on the market that is wider than the standard steel hookclmap so that it can fit on 48mm or 50mm pipe. The aluminium hookcalmps have a longer screw so are more usefull.
Hope that helps.
Regards Don
[%sig%]
Lighting pipe has it's origins in England as scaffolding and is 1 7/8 inches so you need to use 48mm, or you will find some hook clamps will not fit over the bar easily, if you use 50mm pipe.
There are several versions of aluminium "bars"
The "C" section has a strip missing along one of the faces to allow the bar to be prewired with round 3 pin sockets. The gaps between the sockets has a soft plastic extrusion fitted to protect the cabling and help the bar look neat. These sockets are easily damaged when touring but they saved a lot of time when setting up.
David Ashton in Perth has a square version with a 45 degree chamfer on the bottom side to allow the hook clamp screw to lock in under the bar. This profile bar can be prewired as well. The advantage of using this "square" bar is that you lamps hang vertically as the hookclamp sits on a flat surface. This helps with focussing as the bar does not "twist around" as you focus each light.
For round bars you have a choice of steel which is cheaper but heavier, or aluminium which is dearer but lighter. The choice of wall thickness will affect the weight of the bars.
Always get a rigger to check bar suspension as long span bars may need a middle support, depending on the wall thickness.
Testing and tagging of lamps is essential otherwise the bar can become lethal.
There is an aluminium hookclamp on the market that is wider than the standard steel hookclmap so that it can fit on 48mm or 50mm pipe. The aluminium hookcalmps have a longer screw so are more usefull.
Hope that helps.
Regards Don
[%sig%]
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